Got a tip for the rest of the club. Send it to mioccsecretary@gmail.com and it might turn up on this page.
First off Links have been included in the stie for Paddles, oc1/2’s, OC4’s and other Outrigger related things
Paddle links are on the Side Bar to the right —>
List of OC1 and OC2 Manufacturers
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A series of 5 videos on paddling Technique have been posted on our site before. The clinic was given by Danny Ching and Johnny Puakea.
Also 3 Posts on Steering Technique have been posted
Below are two written sections on Paddling Technique.
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There is an Awesome section on the Panamuna OCC website called the Paddling Guide. I have reproduced two section here with permission.
An outrigger is pulled not pushed through the water. To do this paddlers need to reach out, grab the water and drag the canoe forward. Most blades also have a bend (usually around 10 degrees, held with the blade bending away from the paddler) which increases the lift of the blade as it enters the water. This effectively pulls and lifts the canoe to decrease the canoe surface area and the water resistance. Lift is achieved by focusing power at the front of the stroke.
The paddle should exit the water when it reaches the paddlers mid thigh to hip. Extending the stroke beyond this point decreases the lift generated and increases drag. Synchronised paddling; with all paddles entering and exiting the water at the same time and all paddlers using the same technique; provides the maximum pull and lift for the minimum effort. This can only be achieved through developing a consistent paddling technique both individually and as team, it requires practice.
Rotating from the hips allows paddlers to apply leverage and deliver maximum pull through the water. Twisting the upper body instead of using the arms utilises stronger muscle groups and minimises fatigue. This reach and twist motion requires flexibility. Locking the lower body and arms also results in less rocking of the canoe creating a consistent streamlined hull. Paddlers should maintain a straight line up the spine, twisting around this plane, with heads up and all in a row. The optimum degree of lean (forward) is influenced by the paddler. Smaller paddlers may use a dynamic approach where they lean forward a little (10-30 degrees) at the start of the stroke to increase reach and then straighten during the stroke to provide power. Others should focus on a static approach with minimum lean and no forward/backward body movement. Inappropriate lean increases lower back stress and should never be excessive, larger paddlers should always adopt a static style.
Paddling technique is continually under review and development. Consequently there are a wide range of differing ideas about what constitutes good technique, however everyone agrees that all paddlers in a canoe should have the same technique. The following Paddling Phases can be used as a general guide.
Set Up Phase
The stroke commences.
- Maximum reach and twist with the paddle blade just out of the water.
- Paddle blade perpendicular to canoe hull.
- Lower hand around 1 hand width from the start of the blade face.
- Top hand should not be outside the canoe.
- Bottom arm with minimal bend and locked.
- Top arm slightly bent and locked.
- Leading leg (paddle side) extended and firmly planted. Offside leg bent under the seat.
- Both legs (knees) braced against canoe to lock the paddler in.
- Straight back, possibly a small forward lean.
- Head up.
- Basically your arms and shoulders should form a “big C”.
Entry Phase
Plant the blade. Push the blade cleanly into the water.
- Everyone at the same time.
- Drop bottom shoulder to move arms down and drive the full blade into the water up to the neck.
- Strive for a clean entry (no plonking) by maintaining the paddle perpendicular to the canoe and entering the water at the speed (horizontal paddle movement) of the canoe.
- At this stage you are not pulling the canoe just getting the blade planted.
Catch Phase
This phase commences once the full blade is in the water and can be considered as the preparation for the power phase. It delivers lift to the canoe and minimises drag on the canoe. Pull the canoe through the water.
- Start body rotation and apply pressure to the top hand, this moves the canoe forward and creates lift.
- The paddle shaft moves toward the vertical and becomes fully anchored.
Power Phase
The blade is now aligned with the maximum surface area and the canoe is ready to absorb the surge of power. Pull with power.
- Drive with the extended leg.
- Rotate with locked arms.
- Straighten upper body.
- Focus on pulling the canoe through the water creating a power surge.
Exit Phase
This phase occurs once the blade reaches the mid-thigh to hip. Leaving the blade in the water past this point increases drag.
- Everyone at the same time.
- Rotation is complete and the blade is quickly removed from the water by rolling the shoulders to lift the bottom and drop the top hand.
- Some bend naturally occurs in the the bottom arm at this stage.
- There should be no power applied, focus on getting the blade clear of the water.
Recovery Phase
Return the paddle to the Set Up Phase.
- Relax and recover.
- Twist top wrist to feather the blade over the water.
- Rotate back to the set up position, straightening the bottom arm.
- Keep bottom hand travel parallel and just off the canoe side.
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Technique, Technique, Technique People. Here is a tip from the Preformance Paddler Website :
Paddling technique is not so much a matter of definitives but rather a series of theories and opinions. However over recent years where paddle-sports have taken on a higher profesional profile so too has there been a deeper study into the mechanics of efficient paddling techniques related to any given paddle craft. Jason Somerville-Kimlin of Mooloolaba Outrigger Canoe Club, formerly of Outrigger Australia and one of Australia’s most respected and experienced outrigger paddlers, outlines what is currently being promoted as the most efficient use of both body and blade.
AN EFFICIENT TECHNIQUE IS THE KEY TO ENJOYABLE AND FAST OUTRIGGER CANOEING.
In any endurance sport efficiency is the key to getting the best results with the least amount of effort and of all canoeing, outrigger and marathon racing puts the highest premium on efficiency. Observing a canoe race, you’ll notice the leaders go by looking relaxed and going fast. Sometimes they don’t appear to be working very hard. Then the rest of the teams follow, each one going slower but appearing to be working much harder than the leaders. What’s going on here? Do the leaders have a much faster canoe? The fact is, they are simply much more efficient in their technique than the teams which they are beating. Outrigger canoe racing is an endurance sport. The leaders of a cross-country ski race or a runner in a marathon or triathlon appearr to be gliding along with minimal effort. Their motions are just enough to get the job done without wasting precious energy.
Hence the rule in endurance sports: WORKING HARD DOES NOT ENSURE THAT YOU ARE GOING TO GO FAST! You can take your paddle and attack the water with it, straining every muscle in your body, throwing up big rooster-tails behind you, or you can slice your blade into the water, anchoring it solidly and using your entire torso, pulling it smoothly and evenly with much better results.
Not only is good technique energy-saving and fast, it is easy to learn because it is so simple. Part of the learning process requires that you have a clear picture in your mind of how a paddler moves the canoe through the water. THE CANOE IS BEING PULLED FORWARD THROUGH THE WATER UP TO THE PADDLE, WHICH ACTS AS AN ANCHOR IN-THE WATER (AKIN TO A MOUNTAINEER CLIMBING UPWARD WITH THEIR ICE AXE). THE CANOE IS BEING PULLED FORWARD NOT PUSHED. Reach forward as far as you can without bending or hinging at the waist, at the beginning of the stroke.
Remember this principle and you overcome one of the major technical problems most canoeists have, that is, trying to move the canoe forward by pushing through entering the paddle too far back and continuing the stroke too far behind. TO PULL RATHER THAN PUSH THE CANOE THROUGH THE WATER, REACH FORWARD AS FAR AS YOU CAN (WITHOUT BENDING OR HINGING AT THE WAIST) AT THE BEGINNING OF THE STROKE AND END THE STROKE JUST BEFORE YOUR LOWER HAND REACHES YOUR HIP. Use your body in the stroke. Most paddlers are all arms, attempting to generate all the power with the relatively small bicep and tricep muscles of the arms rather than using, in combination, the muscles of the torso which are far larger and more capable.
By keeping the stroke in front of you, you will be leaning slightly forward and you using the stomach and back muscles by rotating on (around) your spine. Dropping your lower shoulder and rotating, you will be able to extend and pull on that arm using the latissimus dorsi muscle of your back. Using the larger, stronger muscles of the torso is one of the secrets behind the leaders looking less wiped out at the finish line than the stragglers.
Entering the blade rather than attacking, or stabbing at the water place the blade cleanly in the water. Do not start the stroke until the blade is in the water (this will cause cavitation and you will not get full power from your stroke). A clean, silent entry is the beginning of a good stroke. Note too, that your lower arm should be fully extended and straight. Pull the canoe up to the blade and firmly anchor the blade in deeply before making the pull; pull down and across with your top hand and down and back with your lower hand, keeping your elbows locked.
If you have sliced the blade in cleanly and buried the whole blade in the water you will have a solid anchor from which you can pull the canoe. You have now come to the main part of the stroke where your objective is to lever yourself and the canoe forward to the anchor point of the paddle. Your lower body should be firmly positioned in the canoe to fully transfer energy from the paddle to the canoe. Likewise, you do not want any extra movement in your arms that would absorb or deflect energy from moving the canoe forward. This involves keeping your arms in the entry position, swinging down and through from your shoulders. Try to push down and across with your top hand and pull down and back on your lower hand, smoothly and equally. Watch your hands and make sure that they move through the stroke at the same rate, neither faster than the other. End the stroke just before your lower hand reaches your hip.
Helpful Hints
• Try the techniques shown with locked elbows, this will force you to sit up and rotate.
• Add the minimum bend neccessary to your arms for comfort.
• Try to keep a flat back and keep your chin up, this will afford the maximum oxygen and will help keep your shoulder and neck muscles relaxed.
• Don’t forget to get drive from your leading leg.
• Keep your face muscles relaxed and remember to breath!
• Keep your concentration in the canoe and remember that is it the thoughtful application of power that makes each and every stroke count.
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Next there is a Section on the Roles of the Seats in the Canoe
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The Panamuna Website also has an excellent section on the role of each seat in the Canoe. Click through and check it out.
Seat 1 (Stroke)
Seat 1
sets the rhythm and rate for the canoe. The rate will vary depending on conditions, but is usually somewhere around 60 strokes/minute. They should be able to feel the canoe and will adjust the stoke to suit prevailing conditions and the other paddlers in the canoe to deliver optimum performance. Being number 1 means leading from the front. It is not a power seat but it is psychologically challenging (it can be lonely at number 1) and requires self-motivation and the ability to remain focused. At times Seat 1 will be required to assist in turning the canoe, either using a J Stroke or a Uni. They also inform the steerer of possible obstacles ahead and provided a Clear or Block call when a change of direction is being considered (particularly in congested race conditions).
Seat 2
Seat 2 mirrors Seat 1. They depend on the body and arm movements of Seat 1 to determine the rhythm and rate as they do not have a blade in front of them to follow. Number 2 is the main source of support and encouragement for Seat 1. The 1/2 combination is the foundation on which the canoes performance is built. At times Seat 2 will be required to assist in turning the canoe using a J Stroke/Kahe. They may also call the Hut (change sides).
Seat 3
Seat 3 is a power seat, part of the engine room of the canoe. In most cases this is a seat for a stronger/heavier paddler. From here they have maximum access to the water and can consistently deliver pulling power with their weight acting as a stabiliser. The focus of Seat 3 is to follow Seat 1 and deliver strong stokes to pull the canoe through the water. They may also call the Hut (change sides).
Seat 4
Seat 4 is also a power seat. In addition Seat 4 is located in the best position for bailing and keeping the canoe dry (as much possible). The focus of Seat 4 is to follow Seat 2 and deliver strong stokes to pull the canoe through the water.
Seat Five
Seat 5 requires all round skills, including power and awareness. They have a good view of the canoe and can clearly see the ama, quickly reacting to prevent a capsize (huli). They follow Seat 3, support the steerer, and bail when necessary.
Seat 6 (Steerer)
The steerer is in command of the canoe. For the safety of the canoe and its contents all paddlers must respond promptly to the commands of the steerer.
Steerers motivate the crew, providing direction and feedback. Their ability to read the water and identify the best line to navigate can be the difference between a good team and a great team. Steering the canoe is performed by poking the paddle blade down the side of the canoe or paddling with a directional draw stroke. It requires an intuitive feel for the canoe and a high level of skill (it is not easy).
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